Strongpets Blog » Exotics

Common Corn Snake Problems

katherine — Fri, 15 May 2009 03:09:10 +0000

Regurgitation	The tank may be too cold. This will make the mouse to rot in your snake, finally causing the snake to regurgitate. Additionally, the mouse may have been to large.
Snake refuses to eat.	Make sure your tank is warm enough and the mouse is not too big. Your snake might also be in a mating cycle or a brumation cycle (a semi-hibernation state). If a female is full of eggs she will stop eating. If the day length has shortened, your snake might slow down eating. Finally, if your snake does not feel secure, he might stop eating. Provide him with one or two nice hiding places. To entice a snake to eat, try both dead prey, then live prey. Try feeding your snake during the day, and then at night. A towel over the tank may help, as will snipping open the dead mouse’s nose or head. If you do not resolve this problem, take your snake to the vet to rule out bacteria, protozoa or worms. When your snake defecates, collect the feces in a clean bag and take it to a reptile veterinarian.
Thin, stringy mucous coming from the nose or mouth, or changes in feces or urates.	Sign of a disease or infection. Take to a reptile veterinarian immediately.
Sudden Death	Unfortunately, inbreeding to create “cool colors” has resulted in some quick and unexplained deaths in corn snakes.
Milky blue eyes, dull body color with a whiteish sheen.	This is not a problem. Your healthy snake is due to shed! If you watch, your snake’s eyes will clear, and he will begin to shed. Soak your snake in warmish water after his eyes clear to assure proper hydration. This will enable your snake to shed within the next 24 hours.

Water Turtle Habitat

admin — Sat, 09 May 2009 20:04:49 +0000

Water Turtle Habitat

Your turtle will need both a land area and swim area. The land area should have one area at room temperature, and one heated to about 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Be sure to have two good high range thermometers in your tank to measure this. Your turtle’s land should be large enough for him to sit on comfortably. The water area should be deeper than your turtle’s shell is wide, and should be big enough for him to swim around comfortably. If your turtle flips over in the water, he should be able to comfortable right himself in the water.

Your tank should be no less than 20 gallons, and should be more if at all possible. It will need a filtration system, and an aquarium heater set at approximately 82 degrees Fahrenheit, depending on your type of turtle. Your heat lamp should have a 40-60W incandescent light bulb which should heat your land area to about 85 degrees. Your land area can be built from natural rocks, safe wood or something you have purchased in a store. Be sure your turtle is able to easily climb from the water to your land. In addition to your heat lamp, you will need a fluorescent light with a VitaLite™ bulb to serve as sunlight. Tap water is fine to use in your tank, since turtles are not as sensitive to chlorine as your standard fish.

You do not need any type of gravel or material in the bottom of your water area. This makes it easier to clean your turtle’s tank. It will also keep your turtle from ingesting gravel and becoming blocked, which is unfortunately a common occurrence. Your turtle will need a full water change once a week. At least twice a year you will need to scrub the tank with a very watered down bleach solution, rinsing thoroughly. If you run a good filter on your tank, you won’t have to change your water as often. Put one teaspoon of aquarium salt in your tank for every gallon of water. Clean water is of the utmost importance to turtle health. It is important to keep your water changed regularly. Purchasing a good pump and hose for water changes is wise for both ease and functionality.

Water Turtle Waste

Your turtle produces both visible and invisible waste. Use a net to clean the visible waste as soon as you can. The invisible waste will produce ammonia in your tank, which is harmful to your turtle. Purchase a test kit and test your water regularly. If you find the ammonia level high, it is time for a full water change. If you are going to be on vacation, you can purchase some ammonia remover for your turtle care-taker, if he or she is not comfortable with changing the turtle’s water. Consider making a feeding tub for your turtle. Turtles eliminate shortly after eating, so chances are you can catch the waste in the feeder tub before you put him back in his big tank.

Water Turtle Diet

admin — Sat, 09 May 2009 20:03:44 +0000

Water Turtle Diet

Water turtles must be in the water to eat. They are predominantly carnivores, but will often enjoy good fruits and greens. You may feed your turtle earthworms, redworms, mealworms, whole feeder goldfish, snails, crickets, kibbles, reptomin, trout chow and king worms. Do not feed your turtle tubifex worms, raw chicken, hamburger or organ meat. It is safe to feed it cooked chicken. Feed your turtle every 2 to 3 days. Just like a dog, if he gets too big, feed less, too small, feed more. Some turtle owners feed their pets daily, alternating fresh veggie and fruit mixes with meat on alternating days.

Feed your turtle a vitamin twice a week. He will need Calcium, Vitamin D3 and Vitamin A. You may find a product formulated specifically for turtles or reptiles. Some bird vitamins will contain what you need for your turtle’s nutrition.

Water Turtles

admin — Sat, 09 May 2009 20:02:35 +0000

Water Turtles

Water turtles are interesting and fun pets, but are quite a lot of responsibility. To begin with, a water turtle can live to be 40 years old. They need no less than a 20 gallon tank, which will require about one hour of proper cleaning a week. Food for your turtle can cost up to $20 a month. You should also plan for vet bills that equal to that of a cat or dog visit. Finally, turtles can indeed carry parasites or salmonella. Be sure to wash your hands thoroughly after you handle your turtle and its habitat.

If you understand the amount of care and time a turtle will take and are still excited, then you are ready to start your adventure! Remember, there are many species of turtle available today, from red-eared sliders to mud turtles (which by the way, make good turtle pets). Be sure to research your particular species of turtle.

Water Turtle Health

If your turtle becomes sick, you will need to analyze his environment and change the water, temperature or other factors. There are several common symptoms of a sick turtle. They include lack of appetite, sounds, rashes, swollen eyes, shell sores and sneezing. If you observe any of these, call your local veterinarian.

Lizard Housing

admin — Sat, 09 May 2009 19:49:00 +0000

Lizard Housing

Lizards require enough space to crawl, climb and stretch out their full length with plenty of room to spare. They need water to drink and bathe in, as well as plenty of fresh food. The enclosure needs to be secure, with an escape-proof top.

If your lizard is diurnal, it is awake during the day. He will need at least 10 to 12 hours of full spectrum lighting a day. This will help him to absorb plenty of calcium and vitamin D, a necessity for their health.

The bottom of the enclosure should be absorbent like bark or rabbit pellets. You can also purchase a reptile carpet at your local pet store. Gravel and dirt are hard to clean and are not your best choice. If your lizard burrows, provide it with a plastic container of sand. Your lizard will love places to hide, such as limbs, bark or ceramic logs. There are attractive objects you can purchase that will not only beautify your housing, but please your lizard as well.

The temperature of your habitat is extremely important. Your enclosure should remain between 75 to 85 degrees (NOTE! Different lizards may require different temperatures. Be sure to research the temperature requirements for the particular lizard you are purchasing). There should be a basking area on the side heated to 90 to 95 degrees. Purchase two high range thermometers, placing one near the basking area and one at the opposite side.

Lizard Diet

admin — Sat, 09 May 2009 19:43:53 +0000

Lizard Diet

Maybe yech to you, but yum to them! Small to medium lizards are often insectivores, with the larger sometimes partial or total vegetarians. Lizards are accustomed to eating whole animals. Crickets are the best, with less shell or “chitin,” which is indigestible. Mealworms are good, but they have more chitin than crickets and can eventually block the gut. You can also feed waxworms, butterworms, pinkies (for larger lizards), green and yellow vegetables as well as fruit.

Calcium is very important to the lizard diet. Again, be sure to fully research the requirements of your specific lizard. You can purchase calcium supplements, including a calcium powder that you can shake your crickets in before you place them in the tank. If your lizard has a thin to normal body weight but his legs begin to look chubby, take him to the vet immediately. This is a symptom of calcium deficiency, which can eventually kill your lizard.

Lizards

admin — Sat, 09 May 2009 19:39:21 +0000

Lizards

Always wash your hands before and after you hold your lizard. If your lizard is small, handle him gently. Never hold your lizard by the head or tail.

Small lizards live three to five years, while larger lizards can live up to twenty years. Be sure to keep this in mind when selecting your pet.

Lizards have two lungs, and can breathe through their skin as well as their lungs. They are “sun seekers,” meaning they seek out warmth for hunting and digesting their food, while they look for cooler temperatures when they begin to overheat. Your healthy lizard will molt, or shed his skin.

Choosing Your Lizard

Generally, there are a few lizards that might be your best choice as a first time lizard. Leopard Geckos grow up to 8 inches long, but are nocturnal – they will not be active during the day. Bearded dragons can grow to 2 feed as adults – requiring a larger habitat.

You might consider a skink as well. The Blue Tongue Skink grows up to 30 inches long, and require a large terrarium. The Berber/Schneider skink grows up to 18 inches long, and may be suitable as a first time lizard.

Be sure to read about Lizard Diets and Lizard Housing before you decide to purchase a lizard.

Lizards take a great amount of care, require fairly large habitats, and can be a lifelong responsibility. Research and read everything you can before purchasing a lizard!

Hermit Crab Food

admin — Sat, 09 May 2009 19:29:46 +0000

Hermit Crab Food

Hermit crab food can be purchased at any local pet store. It is good to use a mixture of both the solid pellet and the powder. Include fresh fruits and veggies, but do not feed citrus to them. Crabs also need calcium, so always keep a bit of cuttlebone in the tank, away from the water. It is also a good idea to purchase sea salt at your local pet store and place a tiny bit in a corner for the crabs to eat if their bodies need it. The minerals are good for their exoskeleton.

Hermit Crab Water

You may read that it is good to completely submerge your crab in water every week or so for a good cleaning. This probably won’t hurt your crab, but we have found excessive water can hurt your crab if they don’t dry out properly. Strongpets has had the best luck by keeping a special hermit crab sponge saturated with water in the cage at all times. Simply wet the sponge twice a day and place it in a shallow dish. Do not leave standing water in your cage if there is a possibility of it tipping. Water can stand in the bottom, causing your crab to be too wet, which will kill him.

Tap water has chlorine in it, which is deposited on their gills and can harm them. Please use bottled (not distilled) fresh water.

Back to Hermit Crabs

Hermit Crab Cage

admin — Sat, 09 May 2009 19:28:33 +0000

Hermit Crab Cage

Hermit crabs do well in cages that have bars so they can climb for exercise. One that has a plastic bottom tray but bar sides will be perfect for your crab. Some people like to use fish tanks, which work just as well. You can use rocks in the bottom, but we like the special sand made especially for hermit crabs. You can get a variety of colors, including glow in the dark! Sand is better for quick scat and food cleanup since it is easy to find in the sand.

Your hermit crab loves to climb. You can purchase logs and sticks that work well, or place large beach shells (such as conch) or rocks in the cage for climbing purposes.

Shells

Hermit crabs need several different sized shells in their tank. As they grow, they will move from one shell to another. Have several sizes, starting from their own size and increasing ready for them in the tank.

Warmth

The temperature in your tank or cage should range from 65-85 degrees F. You can use a heat lamp to warm a side of the cage, or even a desk lamp to warm them for an hour or two. You may find they will climb to the top of the cage if you have a warm light to the side.

Hermit Crabs

admin — Sat, 09 May 2009 19:27:25 +0000

Hermit Crabs

If you have children, I don’t think you can leave a beach resort without a hermit crab in tow. Who can resist them? Hermit crabs are actually fascinating pets, and can thrive if you learn what they need to live a healthy, strong life.

Molting

You may look in your cage and find a piece of claw in the sand, or that your hermit crab is out of his shell. Do not worry, he is probably molting. Your crab will shed his shell when he is healthy. A new shell is underneath and will harden. Leave the outer shell in the cage so he can eat it and gain back the calcium needed to harden his new exoskeleton.

NEVER TRY TO PULL YOUR CRAB FROM HIS SHELL. A HERMIT CRAB WILL ALLOW HIMSELF TO BE RIPPED APART AND DIE RATHER THAN BE PULLED OUT OF THE SAFETY OF HIS SHELL.

Community

Hermit crabs live in communities. It is best for you to purchase two or more at a time.

Claws

The hermit crab has a large claw used for climbing, which will hurt if it is pinching you. It is alright to hold your crab, but be careful not to keep your fingers near this claw. Remember, your crab will use his claw for climbing, so don’t be startled if you feel a slight pinch. If he holds on to you and does not let go, you can place your hermit crab under a cool stream of water to startle him off. Do not throw your crab out of surprise, since the fall may injure or kill your hermit crab.

Breeding

Hermit crabs do not reproduce in captivity. In their natural habitat, land hermit crab females carry the eggs for a short time. They release them at the shoreline, and the babies live in the water for about six molts. Following this, they come back to the shore and remain land crabs for the rest of their lives.