Regurgitation	The tank may be too cold. This will make the mouse to rot in your snake, finally causing the snake to regurgitate.  Additionally, the mouse may have been to large.
Snake refuses to eat.	Make sure your tank is warm enough and the mouse is not too big.  Your snake might also be in a mating cycle or a brumation cycle (a semi-hibernation state).  If a female is full of eggs she will stop eating.  If the day length has shortened, your snake might slow down eating.  Finally, if your snake does not feel secure, he might stop eating.  Provide him with one or two nice hiding places.  To entice a snake to eat, try both dead prey, then live prey.  Try feeding your snake during the day, and then at night.  A towel over the tank may help, as will snipping open the dead mouse’s nose or head.  If you do not resolve this problem, take your snake to the vet to rule out bacteria, protozoa or worms.  When your snake defecates, collect the feces in a clean bag and take it to a reptile veterinarian.
Thin, stringy mucous coming from the nose or mouth, or changes in feces or urates.	Sign of a disease or infection.  Take to a reptile veterinarian immediately.
Sudden Death	Unfortunately, inbreeding to create “cool colors” has resulted in some quick and unexplained deaths in corn snakes.
Milky blue eyes, dull body color with a whiteish sheen.	This is not a problem.  Your healthy snake is due to shed!  If you watch, your snake’s eyes will clear, and he will begin to shed.  Soak your snake in warmish water after his eyes clear to assure proper hydration.  This will enable your snake to shed within the next 24 hours.

Water Turtle Habitat

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Your turtle will need both a land area and swim area. The land area should have one area at room temperature, and one heated to about 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Be sure to have two good high range thermometers in your tank to measure this. Your turtle’s land should be large enough for him to sit on comfortably. The water area should be deeper than your turtle’s shell is wide, and should be big enough for him to swim around comfortably. If your turtle flips over in the water, he should be able to comfortable right himself in the water.

Your tank should be no less than 20 gallons, and should be more if at all possible. It will need a filtration system, and an aquarium heater set at approximately 82 degrees Fahrenheit, depending on your type of turtle. Your heat lamp should have a 40-60W incandescent light bulb which should heat your land area to about 85 degrees. Your land area can be built from natural rocks, safe wood or something you have purchased in a store. Be sure your turtle is able to easily climb from the water to your land. In addition to your heat lamp, you will need a fluorescent light with a VitaLite™ bulb to serve as sunlight. Tap water is fine to use in your tank, since turtles are not as sensitive to chlorine as your standard fish.

You do not need any type of gravel or material in the bottom of your water area. This makes it easier to clean your turtle’s tank. It will also keep your turtle from ingesting gravel and becoming blocked, which is unfortunately a common occurrence. Your turtle will need a full water change once a week. At least twice a year you will need to scrub the tank with a very watered down bleach solution, rinsing thoroughly. If you run a good filter on your tank, you won’t have to change your water as often. Put one teaspoon of aquarium salt in your tank for every gallon of water. Clean water is of the utmost importance to turtle health. It is important to keep your water changed regularly. Purchasing a good pump and hose for water changes is wise for both ease and functionality.

Water Turtle Waste

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Your turtle produces both visible and invisible waste. Use a net to clean the visible waste as soon as you can. The invisible waste will produce ammonia in your tank, which is harmful to your turtle. Purchase a test kit and test your water regularly. If you find the ammonia level high, it is time for a full water change. If you are going to be on vacation, you can purchase some ammonia remover for your turtle care-taker, if he or she is not comfortable with changing the turtle’s water. Consider making a feeding tub for your turtle. Turtles eliminate shortly after eating, so chances are you can catch the waste in the feeder tub before you put him back in his big tank.